Categories
Downtown East St. Louis, Illinois Green Space JNEM Riverfront

Final Designs Submitted in Arch Design Competition

Yesterday, the five finalists entered in the City+The Arch+The River 2015 design competition submitted their completed designs. Among these is the team headed by SOM and Hargreaves Associates that includes the Preservation Research Office. PRO has provided conceptual planning for both preservation of cultural resources within the competition boundary and creation of new cultural tourism plans for the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial. That is all that we can divulge until next week.

See our team’s submission and all of the others starting on Tuesday. Here is a calendar of upcoming events in the exciting final stretch of the competition.

Opening of the Public Exhibition of the Design Concepts of the Five Finalist Teams
Tuesday, Aug. 17
o 9:00 a.m.: Welcome at the Arch Grounds (in the event of inclement weather, event will be held in Arch Lobby)
Remarks by: St. Louis Mayor Francis G. Slay; Tom Bradley, Park Superintendent, Jefferson National Expansion Memorial; Lynn McClure, National Parks Conservation Association; Donald G. Stastny, Competition Manager

o 9:15 a.m. – 11:00 a.m.: Open House in the Arch Lobby
Park Superintendent, Competition Manager and others will be on hand to answer your questions about the competition

Design Concepts Exhibition at the Arch and in the Community*

Aug. 17 – Sept. 24

Categories
Downtown

Columbia Building (Truncated)

by Michael R. Allen

Once upon a time there stood a nine-story building — ten stories including its attic — at the southeast corner of Eighth and Locust streets in the heart of downtown St. Louis. This grand building was named the Columbia Building, a name apt for a building completed in 1892, 400 years after Christopher Columbus arrived in North America. The builders commissioned prominent Saint Louis architect Isaac Taylor, who had recently designed the great Romanesque Merchandise Mart (then Liggett Building) at 1000 Washington, which opened in 1888.

From left to right: the Columbia Building, the L & N Building and the Turner Building. (Source: Scan from derivative in the collection of Landmarks Association of St. Louis.)

Taylor handled the design for the Columbia Building deftly, filling the small but prominent lot — located directly across the street from the Old Post Office — with a tall, narrow steel-framed office building that utilized the principles of the emergent Chicago School of design with a restrained Romanesque formality. The building was a small masterpiece of downtown design, and remained so for many years.

The Columbia Building in a 1904 postcard view. (Source: Collection of Michael R. Allen.)

Then, abruptly, the Columbia Building’s world fell apart. Its first damage came from the 1971 demolition of the Victoria Building diagonally across the intersection. The Victoria Building was what model railroaders would call a “kit-bashed” building: a mix of some parts of Louis Sullivan’s St. Nicholas Hotel at that site, which had suffered a bad fire in 1905, and some new construction below. The St. Nicholas Hotel, completed in 1893, had been dazzling in its eclectic application of Sullivan’s principles to a pitched-roof hotel building. Its later incarnation was slightly dull, flat-roofed but certainly not ugly. The remains of Sullivan’s design were strong enough to suggest latent grandeur, and that grandeur heightened the dramatic qualities in the other buildings at the intersection, including the Columbia.

Yet, after the demolition of the Victoria Building, the owners of the Columbia were not content to let their building take on the task of holding together the integrity of this part of the Old Post Office district. They proposed a ghastly destruction of the building that continues to puzzle observers of Saint Louis architecture: they wanted to remove the building’s top eight floors (including the attic), leaving a two-story storefront box at the corner. After receiving city approval, the owners went forward with their plans in 1977 and left behind a bizarre little Columbia Building that still stands today.

One could find some poetic justice in the diminution of a building named for the Italian invader Columbus. Certainly, his legacy is unworthy of a whole fine Isaac Taylor building. Had this been a bold anti-imperialist gesture coming in 1977, it would have seemed gloriously prescient, ahead of the historical scholarship of the 1980’s and 1990’s that has punctured the heroism of Columbus.

Yet the lopping of the Columbia building was not an act of anti-imperial sentiment, but a calculated move on the part of capitalists trying to squeeze greater profit from their piece of a decaying imperial city. Saint Louis was in decline, and the real-estaters could no longer afford to venerate their own monuments. The Columbia Building owners, however, managed to do something few other downtown building owners did. Perhaps this is due to the irrationality of their act; other owners tore down “unprofitable” buildings for supposedly-profitable parking lots and garages. No one else assumed that the way to make money on the old buildings of downtown was to remove the unprofitable portions while saving the rest.

The Columbia Building as it appeared on November 26, 2004. The dentils on the new cornice are painted on.

In the early 1990’s, developer Larry Deutsch attempted to utilize the Columbia Building owners’ strategy, and proposed to remove the top two floors of — coincidentally — Taylor’s Merchandise Mart. The city’s Heritage and Urban Design Commission voted down Deutsch’s plans, perhaps anticipating the current downtown housing boom. Nowadays one can see the wasted fortunes of the short-sighted custodians of Isaac Taylor’s buildings: another developer has profitably renovated the entire Merchandise Mart for housing, while the owners of the Columbia Building have no upper floors to enter into the condominium speculation. I will suggest that the Columbia Building, with its small floor areas and corner location, would have been one of the easiest downtown buildings to adapt to housing. Instead, it is a strange relic, with its first floor retail space currently vacant.   Ah, what a New World we always seem to live in!

Categories
Chicago Downtown

Blair Kamin in St. Louis

by Michael R. Allen

Chicago Tribune architecture critic Blair Kamin turns his Cityscapes blog toward St. Louis. Today’s introductory post includes this provocative assessment of Busch Stadium: “a retro ballpark that is too competent and context-driven to hate, but too bloated to love.” Stay tuned for more.

Categories
Downtown North St. Louis Northside Regeneration

Northside Regeneration and City Museum Now Neighbors

by Michael R. Allen

The big story this week is that Paul J. McKee Jr.’s Northside Regenation LLC filed a post-trial (well, post-ruling) request for a new trial to Judge Robert Dierker, Jr. The City of St. Louis apparently is joining the request. On July 2nd, Dierker invalidated the two city ordinances that constituted Northside Regeneration’s redevelopment agreement with the City of St. Louis.

Not mentioned in recent news reports is the fact that Northside Regeneration is still buying property for its project.  The most recent purchase brings Northside Regeneration’s holdings directly into downtown. On June 4, the company closed on a nearly $2 million purchase of a large parcel containing a warehouse building located at 1424 Dr. Martin Luther King Drive. (The parcel is highlighted on a Geo St. Louis map below.)

If that address is not familiar, its surroundings will be: the parcel is one block north of the City Museum, and for the last few years its parking lot has been home to a changing assortment of fire engines, school buses and even the original cupola of the City Hospital’s Administration Building.

Categories
Downtown

St. Louis Public Radio Story on Kiel Opera House

On Monday, St. Louis Public Radio aired a story by Adam Allington on the name change in store for Kiel Opera House. Allington included an interview with Preservation Research Office Director Michael Allen.

A transcript and audio is online here.

Categories
Downtown

Downtown’s Eternal Flame

by Michael R. Allen

Between May 8 and May 10, 1919, a national gathering of World War I veterans met at the Schubert Theater (located at 12th and Locust streets, now demolished) in St. Louis.  The assembled veterans created the American Legion and elected Theodore Roosevelt, Jr. the organization’s first president.

During the first year of American entry into World War II, the Monument Builders of America met in St. Louis at the Municipal Auditorium (of which Kiel Opera House is the surviving section). The monument builders elected to build a monument to commemorate the founding of the American Legion in St. Louis. The natural site for such a marker was the city’s Memorial Plaza, a seven-block park dedicated in the 1920s as a permanent memorial to the city’s casualties in the Great War. Already, in 1938, the city had completed the somber, art moderne-style Soldiers Memorial by Preston J. Bradshaw and Mauran, Russell and Garden in the heart of the Memorial Plaza.

The city and the Monument Builders of America chose a site facing the new Soldiers Memorial on 14th Street between Pine and Chestnut. The monument design consists of a tall granite plinth supporting a copper stand with an eternal flame that burns to this day. Each rib of the copper stand bears the name of one of the 48 states that existed at the time. The plinth is flanked by side blocks and steps arranged asymmetrically. Adorning the cenotaph are a figure of a soldier holding a sword and on bended knee on the east and the American Legion symbol on the west.  Artist Sascha S. Schnittmann (1913-1978) designed the monument and its sculptures. The American Legion Monument was dedicated on September 6, 1942.

In 1969, the American Legion added an inscription on the east face commemorating the fiftieth anniversary of its founding as well as the statement “Liberty in Not License.”  The social, political and military turbulence remaking America in the late 1960s perhaps made the old saw seem particularly pithy.  A historical marker commemorating the founding of the American Legion erected on the Schubert Theater in 1935 also was moved to the east face of the American Legion Monument.

Categories
Downtown

Scale Model of the Kiel Opera House

by Michael R. Allen

This week’s start of the long-awaited rehabilitation of the Kiel Opera House provides an occasion to post some interesting historic photographs from the collection of the St. Louis Building Arts Foundation.

The city of St. Louis’ Plaza Commission, responsible for completing the development of parks and civic buildings in the Memorial Plaza area, commissioned architectural sculptor Victor Berlendis to create a scale model of the proposed Municipal Auditorium and Opera House before construction began in 1932.

The Plaza Commission had the model photographed from different angles and with various cardboard props to demonstrate how lovely it would look when completed. The sky backdrop was a dramatic touch.

The thorough mock-up included a night scene as well. The model’s whereabouts are unknown. Berlendis sculpted other civic buildings from the 1930s, and half of his model of the Main Post Office at 18th and Market resides at Landmarks Association of St. Louis.

For more history of the opera house, the Kiel Opera House National Register nomination by Lynn Josse is the best source.

Categories
Demolition Downtown Historic Preservation

Old Stix Baer & Fuller Building Re-Emerging

by Michael R. Allen

The spirit of John Mauran might be pleased to float down Washington Avenue nowadays. With demolition of the St. Louis Centre skybridge comes the first clear view of the Washington Avenue elevation of the building that originally housed Stix Baer and Fuller Company’s Grand-Leader Department Store. Mauran’s firm of Mauran, Russell & Garden designed the eight-story eastern section, built in 1906. The successor firm Mauran Russell & Crowell designed the nearly-identically-articulated ten-story western section, completed in 1919.

Photograph by Landmarks Association of St. Louis, 1982.

The firm’s later incarnation of Russell, Mullgardt & Schwarz designed a contrasting modern rooftop addition on the eight-story section that was built in 1949, but otherwise the department store building stood unsullied until the start of construction of the St. Louis Centre skybridge in 1984. Fortunately, the bridge has not taken nearly as long to destroy as it did to build, and 25 years of an occluded Stix facade are over. The Washington elevation looks decent underneath, too. The damage is minimal and shall be easily overcome when the building is rehabilitated starting this year.

One of the small joys of the skybridge demolition is the revelation that one of the eastern section’s iron balconies has been intact under the bridge all this time. The use of the balconies remains undocumented, but they are an original feature of the building.

The view of the old Stix building gets better every day.

Categories
Downtown Green Space JNEM Riverfront

The Untold Story of the Gateway Arch

by Rick Rosen

Over the course of a century a community took shape on the riverfront in St. Louis. At the same time, what happened in that community shaped the history of the nation. Finally, as those years of destiny unfolded, St. Louis came to see itself as a capital, as the great center of the Midwest.

But then, the currents of history changed. The river of history shifted its course and bypassed that community. Chicago, not St. Louis, became the capital of the Midwest.

Ever so gradually, the riverfront was forgotten. Then it decayed. Finally, it became an embarrassment to the still thriving but less influential community that had grown up around it following its century of greatness.

In that larger community, the humiliation of having lost out to Chicago lingered on. The embarrassment ran deep and it was accompanied by amnesia — a defense mechanism to cope with humiliation. The amnesia masqueraded as conventional wisdom: the riverfront is economically obsolete with regard to its building stock; the riverfront is obsolete in relation to advances in transportation technology; the riverfront is out of date in comparison to current styles of architecture.

All this conventional wisdom was, of course, true. However, it took hold not because it was true, but because it addressed a psychic need to mask the profound sense of loss that ate at the community’s identity, a loss for which the decaying riverfront was a constant reminder.

And then the great depression arrived. Luther Ely Smith, a man of great vision and a respected leader in his deeply embarrassed community, remembered that first century of greatness — and was appalled by its decadent reflection in the mirror of the nearly abandoned riverfront. He dreamed of something to replace the decadence, something that would bring back to life that lost century of greatness. Smith prevailed on the federal government — in response to the depression—to build a national park on the riverfront. Then he organized a design competition to create a new vision for the site.

And of course he succeeded — beyond his wildest dreams — with the Gateway Arch and its surrounding park grounds. But there was a cost.

A city’s built environment is nothing less than the accretion of its history. Whenever elements of that environment are wiped away, the material record of that history is lost. When the riverfront was cleared after 1939, the elements that were lost were the very elements Luther Ely Smith sought so hard to recover.

Any built environment tells the story of its history. But it’s also true that it tells that story in a special language, an arcane language that only people who are drawn to history, and those whose personal memories are embedded in its buildings, can easily understand. Still, despite its weaknesses, it is by far the best language for telling a community’s story. When it’s silenced, other languages must be found if the story is to be remembered at all.

Today, a second design competition for the riverfront is in progress. This competition presents a magnificent opportunity for St. Louis and it has already generated widespread excitement. Most of the excitement focuses on possibilities for new connections between the arch grounds and the rest of the city. However, with the original built environment of the riverfront long since gone and forgotten, the hidden challenge of the competition is to find the next best language to tell that lost story. Then, and only then, can the amnesia that has prevailed for so long in St. Louis finally be healed.

Rick Rosen is an architectural historian and downtown resident. Contact him at RARstl2@aol.com.

Categories
Demolition Downtown

St. Louis Centre Skybridge Coming Down

by Michael R. Allen

At about 5:05 p.m., wreckers from Environmental Operations Incorporated made first contact between the wrecking ball and the Washington Avenue skybridge between the old St. Louis Centre mall and the former Stix, Baer and Fuller building. Wreckers used the ball to knock out some glass for a few minutes, but stopped short of inflicting major damage. Heavy wrecking has already begun, with the roof already removed before today’s ceremonial demolition.

Long forgotten, it seems, are the proclamations of urban renewal made in 1985 when St. Louis Centre opened. In a 1985 Fortune article on St. Louis’ supposed rebound, Edmund Faltermeyer wrote:

Amid great hoopla — appearances by Bob Hope and child actor Ricky Schroder and thousands of balloons — the glittering $150-million St. Louis Centre opened in August after 16 years of gestation. It is the largest enclosed downtown shopping mall in the U.S., with 1.4 million square feet.

At least Ricky Schroeder is still around.