Categories
Abandonment Churches Hyde Park North St. Louis

Bethlehem Lutheran Church

Photograph by Michael R. Allen, 2005.

LOCATION: 2153 Salisbury Street; Hyde Park; Saint Louis, Missouri
DATE OF CONSTRUCTION: 1895
ARCHITECT: Louis Wessbecher
DATE OF ABANDONMENT: 1980’s
OWNER: Bethlehem Lutheran Church Congregation

Photograph by Michael R. Allen, 2003.

Photograph by Michael R. Allen, 2003.

Photograph by Michael R. Allen, 2005.

The Bethlehem Lutheran Church congregation now meets in a 1920’s school building next door to this beautiful church. The congregation wants to raze the old church, and has not kept it maintained for many years.

Photograph by Yves Marrocchi, 2005.

Photograph by Michael R. Allen, 2005.

Categories
Abandonment Fire Hyde Park North St. Louis

Nord St. Louis Turnverein, Yesterday and Today

The Nord St. Louis Turnverein, open for business in 1981. (Source: Landmarks Association of St. Louis Archive.)

The Nord St. Louis Turnverein, after a devastating fire on July 4, 2006. (Photograph by Claire Nowak-Boyd.)

LOCATION: 1926-30 Salisbury Street; Hyde Park; Saint Louis, Missouri
DATE OF CONSTRUCTION: 1879; 1893 (addition); 1898 (addition)
ARCHITECTS: H.W. Kirchner; Oscar Raeder (1893 & 1898 additions)
DATE OF ABANDONMENT: 1994
OWNER: DHP Investments LLC

Categories
Abandonment Adaptive Reuse Midtown

The Lure of Annihilation

by Colleen McKee, Special to Ecology of Absence

The Continental Building was the skyscraping dream of a crooked banker, a rare combination of conspicuous consumption and taste. It is the stunning embodiment of Art Deco glamour, with a touch of the neo-Gothic. Twenty-two white-tiled flights at its tallest, countless turrets shoot down its dizzying façade. Its twelve roofs at varying levels make it appear even taller than it is, and enhance the sense of enchanting vertigo. It’s the kind of roof a character in an F. Scott Fitzgerald story would fling himself from. The martini glass still in his hand would reflect the lights from Grand Boulevard in flight. Who wouldn’t want to put their money in such a beautiful bank?

Photograph by Michael R. Allen, 2005.

The Continental had a kind of fairy tale allure — the forbidden tower, so conspicuously white in a city of crumbling rust-colored brick. Built in 1929, on the verge of the Depression, the building was doomed from the start by embezzlement, fraud, and a mysterious theft of one million dollars from its basement. That winter night in 1989, when our little pack of trespassers first wriggled our way inside, it had already been vacant ten years.

It was easy to get in. There were boards on the windows that led to the lobby, but they were so sloppily nailed, it only took a few moments for Peyton and Tom to pry them loose with a hammer. Nick and I leaned up against the corner in a way we hoped appeared casual, looking out for police. Nick took Grand and I took Lindell. The cops didn’t come, so the guys pulled themselves inside, while I needed a bit of a boost.

I awkwardly landed on a floor slippery with shattered glass. But beneath the gray glass and dust was marble. The entire interior of the building — walls, floors and stairs — was made of marble, silver-gray and silver-white. It looked wet in the moonlight slanting through the windows. But it wasn’t really moonlight. It was streetlight. Downtown the streetlight sucks up the moonlight, but that makes it no less romantic.

I was fifteen and drunk, as I was every night, not just on moonlight, or streetlight, but on Boone’s Farm Strawberry Hill “Wine”. (In case you’ve never tried it, it’s as pink as cotton candy, twice as sweet, and fizzy. Need I say its cap twists off? Their target market’s so obvious, they should include a free toy in every bottle.) I was at the Continental with my skeevy drug “buddies,” all guys in flannels and ripped leather jackets, all eighteen, twenty years old. There was my twenty-one year old boyfriend Tom, whom I hate to really call my boyfriend because he was never so much my friend as my sleeping bag. He gave me drugs and a place to stay and in exchange I gave him blowjobs, regardless of how long it had been since he bathed. Any semblance of romance between us was shot down the day I refused to blow him and I was forced to sleep in the playground down the street. The bench was very hard, and I quickly relinquished my pride. I forget who else was at the Continental, besides Peyton and Nick, whom I’d also swapped “favors” for drugs, whenever we figured Tom was too drunk to notice. Usually he wasn’t too drunk to notice. We were. (The only drug I wouldn’t do was heroin. Naked Lunch scared me too much. I thank William Burroughs for my only scrap of adolescent self-preservation.)

I’m not sure why I wasn’t dead, what with all I’d ingested, but that night at the Continental, I was maddeningly alive. The guys liked to run up the stairs, faster than I could or would go. I liked to explore the building alone. Homeless men were rumored to live there, but I was fifteen and unafraid. Besides, I didn’t see any homeless guys, just their Army blankets, food scraps and ashes heaped on the marble landings.

Pigeons cooed in every window and turret. Pigeon shit splattered the stairs — another good reason not to run up them. On one of the lower staircases, I discovered a tin of saltines that read, “EMERGENCY: Fallout Shelter Saltines, To Be Eaten in Case of Nuclear Attack.” Somehow the mice had broken in, and there were crackers strewn across the stairs, with fearless mice gnawing on the crumbs. I guess the mice did not realize that the USSR had not yet fallen, that the Cold War was in fact still on, and that they should really be saving their saltines for Doomsday. But the mice were unperturbed by politics and my boots alike. I couldn’t nudge them out of the way. I wound up tiptoeing over them.

Photograph by Michael R. Allen, 2005.

The building narrows near the top, and the staircase does as well. At some point, the wide landings and elegant windows were gone, and I found myself in a stairwell hardly wider than my hips. Each floor was marked by a door whose cursive number I could barely make out. I worried each door would stick or lock. I began to grow claustrophobic, but curiosity carried me through. It was wonderful to push open each new door, 16, 17, 18. I must have been climbing for over an hour when it finally hit me, how tired I was. Only then did I feel the coldsweat under my boyfriend’s black leather jacket, the ache in my lungs, the stray hairs that slipped from my ponytail sticking to my wet cheeks. I brushed the dust from my Danzig T-shirt, and collected my breath for the climb.

When I opened door 21, the stairwell began to grow light. One more flight and I was there. I was on the roof. It had begun to snow, snow dry as cocaine, skittering down from a sky that seemed so close. I walked across the icy roof to the ledge, looked down, enjoying the vertigo. I saw grids of gold streetlights, and headlights pulse down the streets between them in slow snakes of light. Acres of cracked factory glass in metallic black and silver, the colors of negative film. My breath was dry ice, little clouds of exhaustion and exhiliration. I was on top of the city. Up here, the air was thinner and all the usual St. Louis sounds — the whine and hiss of Bi-State buses, the bang of busted tires, the softer bang of bullets, the groans of trains and drunks — up here, all that was gone, that soundtrack of my life. I only heard the wind.

In the center of the roof was an elevator shaft with no elevator in it, a completely black abyss. The guys poked around it, bending over it daringly, but I preferred the edge of the roof. I gazed down at the light outside, the new and strangely appealing light. But the boys had climbed all the way up here, just to stare into a hole. “Look, look!” they yelled, proud of their nondiscovery. I ignored them as I had so many times before, which was half as often as they ignored me. I served a very limited, localized purpose for them.

I returned my attention to the ledge, surveying my city like a queen, a teenage queen, yes, and a queen of ruins, but beautiful ruins, beautiful lights in slow graceful motion. It was an unfamiliar feeling, to let go of the lure of annihilation. I didn’t want to jump. I wanted to look at the world from afar, then reenter it some different way. Don’t get me wrong — I didn’t want to become Nancy Reagan, and I never did. I just got an idea, no, more like a vague yet heady feeling, that there might be more to life than being fucked and getting fucked up, that life might not be best lived on one’s back.

I could have stood up there all night, but the guys wanted to explore the basement. So we tromped down 2400 slick stairs to the darkest place I have ever been. The boys turned on all their flashlights. Still we could only see a few inches at a time. The basement was vast. It was once divided into rooms, but now the doors were gone. On one end was a safe, its door was wide open and, needless to say, it was empty. File cabinets had been kicked over and a layer of papers knee-deep covered the floor. The basement was like an underground swimming pool, like swimming in paper instead of water. The guys waded through the papers as though they were piles of fallen leaves, but I was not as intrigued by this lightless place. It seemed sad to me, all the women who spent years typing those documents, just to have them stomped on by brats in combat boots. I was thinking of row upon row of typists, hammering the keys, hour upon hour. I thought of the ache in their wrists as they typed and filed, typed and filed, darting their eyes at the clock. I did temp work myself at 15, with the help of a fake ID; between the typing jobs by day and the hand jobs by night, I knew what it felt like to have every muscle in my hands go numb then cramp in pain, as though instead of blood, there was salt water running through my veins.

But mostly I was thinking about the view from that roof. I stood in one place as the boys swarmed around me in the dark. I was lit from within by the city inside me. A city of coal dust and rail yards. A city of flickering light.

By 2003, when a friend and I pulled up to its curb, the Continental had been all cleaned up, after many notorious false starts. Just as my life had been.

The mere mention of cocaine still makes me salivate, but watching a friend turn tricks through her pregnancy persuaded me to stay away from it. I no longer go to work in a mini and a filthy bra held together by safety pins. Now I go to work in buttons and pleats; my safety pins are kept in a jar under the bathroom sink. I only wear them to punk shows now. At 30, I’m the oldest one in the pit. I suppose the rehabilitation — both of the Continental and my life — is a good thing. After all, we could easily both be dead.

Yet I know something’s been lost.

Once this building, one of St. Louis’ most amazing architectural triumphs, was accessible to me, if only by force. But now it is barred to me forever, by money. It is carved into neat little suites and I can only peer through the window at the listing of names and security codes where once I had been able to easily clamber up twenty-two flights of stairs to a strange sort of urban heaven, high above the frozen heart of Murder City.

St. Louis has an extraordinary number of vacant buildings; about one out of five are empty. In some neighborhoods, entire streets are vacant. Sometimes that makes me sad, but it is not an unmixed sorrow. Behind every cracked panel of glass, every chipped and fading brick, behind every board on every busted out window, I know there are possibilities.

Categories
Abandonment East St. Louis, Illinois Theaters

Ghosts of the Screen

by Michael R. Allen


Photographic collage by Eric Seelig.

LOCATION: 8601 St. Clair Ave.; Caseyville, Illinois
ORIGINAL NAME: East St. Louis Drive-In
ORIGINAL OPERATOR: Publix Great States Theatres
DATE OF CONSTRUCTION: 1942
DATES OF ABANDONMENT: 1992 – 2005
DATES OF DEMOLITION: August – December 2005

The decrepit and broken floorboards of the ticket office at the French Village Drive-In near East Saint Louis don’t look like a place of terror. For anyone who has spent time around broken-down buildings and abandoned places, the ticket office building doesn’t seem very remarkable save its streamlined, late Art Deco facade. Yet only a few years ago, in November 2000, police recovered the body of a missing East Saint Louis dentist, Kenneth Long, in this vacant space. His body was stashed in the ticket office — on the floor — where it lay until its staunch smell disturbed residents of nearby homes. The residents called the police, who came to find the gruesome source.

Perhaps it is somehow fitting that the French Village Drive-In was then and still is the property of a church congregation, the Church of the Living God of Fairview Heights. The forces of abandonment forge unlikely and unsettling relationships and transform functional spaces into locations of intense historical mutation. Add to the mix the possibility that Dr. Long himself had seen a film at the Drive-In and that many of his patients had also attended screenings at the Drive-In, and the story begins to raise many connections whose significance is uncertain yet troubling. Here is a place built to stimulate the collective imagination becoming the scene of almost-cinematic carnage: the dead body in the abandoned drive-in theater ticket office. What could be more disturbing or fantastic to anyone who had seen a movie, perhaps one involving dead bodies being discovered in foggy and forgotten places?

Still, the French Village Drive-In retains a more direct importance. From its opening in 1942 until its close fifty years later, the French Village Drive-In — originally named for East St. Louis — provided entertainment and escape to thousands of East Siders. People such as my mother fondly remember a night spent gazing at the huge screen in the middle of farm fields, removed enough from the bustle of East St. Louis to provide some sense of getaway to the filmgoers.

J.P. Dromey of Publix Great States Theatres, Inc. opened the East St. Louis Drive-In as perhaps the first drive-in movie theater in the St. Louis area. The original capacity was 500 cars. It attracted local competition by 1949, when the noted Jablonow and Komm chain opened the now-demolished Mounds Drive-In Theatre at 7400 Collinsville Road. By the late 1950’s, the ownership fell into local hands, that of the Bloomer Amusement Company (BAC) of Belleville. BAC renamed the drive-in the French Village Drive-In, perhaps in response to the growing out-migration from East St. Louis. The theater was successful until the 1980’s, when the multi-theater format and home video technology lured people away from viewing an only-choice film under the sky.

Throughout its life, the theater’s stylish design enhanced its presence. Being a relatively early drive-in in the St. Louis area, the theater was constructed when patron and proprietor alike still wanted each movie theater, even a drive-in, to look as lavish as the movies it screened. The French Village Drive-In fulfilled these demands with its stately and colorful Art Deco style. The head-house, site of the ticket office, consists of a two-story, narrow center portion with projecting canopy wings for cars to pass through. All of the corners are heavily rounded, giving the building a space-age look that must have seemed quite sophisticated in 1942. Directly behind the head-house — symmetrically aligned — is the trapezoidal screen structure, which presents gray corrugated aluminum walls that are punctuated by lively red rectangles on the main facade.

The screen structure is unique for a drive-in theater in that its builders built it to accommodate stage as well as screen entertainment. The screen is fronted by a long, somewhat shallow stage. The screen is actually one wall of a building that houses a few dressing rooms, prop storage areas and various lighting controls. During the early days of the drive-in’s life, the stage was used often for pre-film and stand-alone live performance.

The screen and stage now look out upon a field of small trees that cloak the comparatively banal projection house. This field in winter appears to be occupied by countless skeletal forms instead of hundreds of east side filmgoers. Of course, the trees are far from deathly as they continue to grow strong in soil that must still be polluted from the exhaust of the thousands of vehicles that people parked there. Traces of the past use are embedded in the very earth here. The blank screen still commands one’s gaze from the field; something kinetic seems imminent there.

In front of the Drive-In is the outstanding although likely not original marquee, a concoction of red and yellow aluminum, neon tubing and the traditional white letter-board space. C. Bendsen Company of Decatur, Illinois made this marquee. The marquee. The marquee frames the words “French Village” in a three-color palate (green, yellow, blue) with accompanying paintbrush. This sign is imaginative — the subtle palate motif rather than an obvious Eiffel Tower image — and shows that the East Side’s aspirations have always been as grand and as accomplished as those of St. Louis. This drive-in is finer than almost any other that has stood in the St. Louis area. Certainly, its architecture proclaims a confident optimism that has been betrayed, however momentarily, by current events.

In the meantime, the French Village Drive-In awaits some future greater than that of body repository. It is owned by a Fairview Heights church that may seek to build a new church on its ground, but it will likely stand for years to come. Perhaps it may even reopen, beating the forces of history that led to its unbecoming and horrific misuse.

From a nearby hillside, one can catch a view that includes the barren theater grounds as well as the Gateway Arch. The French Village Drive-In came into this view first, before anyone would have predicted that anything much more modern could come along.

More information

  • Drive-Ins.com
  • The Web Yard
  • Cinema Treasures
  • A version of this article appeared under the same title in the Fall 2005 issue of the NewsLetter of the Society of Architectural Historians, Missouri Valley Chapter.

    Categories
    Abandonment Lafayette Square LRA South St. Louis

    Eads House

    by Michael R. Allen

    The so-called Eads House at 1922 Chouteau Avenue in Lafayette Square was owned as investment property by James B. Eads, designer and builder of the famous Eads Bridge in St. Louis. Built in 1872, the mansard-roofed Second Empire originally was divided into two townhouse-style units but was later further divided into four units. The building has stood empty for at least 25 years, and has begun to fully collapse. The Chouteau facade seems intact but a walk around to the alley elevation reveals that the building is in need of desperate help. Homeless people still sleep under the building’s sturdy front steps, though.

    Categories
    Abandonment East St. Louis, Illinois Uncategorized

    Is the Spivey Building Threatened?

    by Michael R. Allen

    On Thursday, January 20, 2005, acting East Saint Louis City manager Alvin Parks ordered the demolition of the Spivey Building (designed by Albert B. Frankel, completed 1928). Prompting his decision was a recent incident in which around fifty bricks from the roofline fell onto the street below during a gust of wind. A similar incident in July 2004 led city officials to condemn the building and erect a fence around the sidewalk surrounding it.

    Parks did not specify how the city government would pay for demolition.

    Yet a February 16, 2005 article in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch reported that the building’s owner, Phillip H. Cohn, objected to the forced demolition and promised the city government that either he or a prospective buyer would make necessary repairs within the near future. Parks accepted this promise and is holding off on demolition — for now.

    St. Louis developer Cohn had purchased the Spivey Building for $75,000 in 2001 and sucessfully sought its listing on the National Register of Historic Places. Cohn started removing asbestos-laden insulation illegally, having workers throw unsealed debris from the building’s windows. Neighbors complained to the city government about their exposure to the hazardous debris. The federal government has charged him with several federal crimes, including violations of regulations on asbestos removal. Work on the Spivey stopped in 2002.

    The last tenant, State Community College, left the Spivey nearly twenty years ago. However, the building once was a prominent address in downtown East St. Louis, home to the old Metro Journal newspaper founded by publisher Allen T. Spivey, who built the building. For years, it housed many doctors’ offices that brought much of the city’s population through its doors. Its Sullivanesque ornament and stature make it a striking regional landmark. As the tallest building in Illinois south of Springfield, its significance echoes beyond East Saint Louis.

    Saving the building is a great challenge, but one that the Saint Louis region should accept. Losing the Spivey would rob East Saint Louis of the chance to rebuild its downtown as a complementary urban district near re-emerging downtown Saint Louis. Let’s hope that the Spivey Building soon reopens and stays open.

    Categories
    Abandonment Chicago Midtown Theaters

    Two Theaters That Closed in 1981

    New to Ecology of Absence today are pages on two theaters on two different scales in two different cities that closed in the same year, 1981. Neither has reopened and both are deteriorating badly. Yet the future looks brighter than ever for both.

    They are:

  • Chicago’s Uptown Theatre
  • Saint Louis’s Sun Theatre

    (For perspective on the timeframe of the vacancies, consider that I was born on December 31, 1980.)

  • Categories
    Abandonment Demolition North St. Louis Old North

    What the 14th Street Mall Could Be

    by Michael R. Allen

    On St. Louis Avenue in Old North St. Louis, a one-story storefront building just bit the dust. Located at 1315 St. Louis Avenue, the modest narrow building was once a productive part of neighborhood commerce, and was part of a connected group of three buildings. Such groups have allowed the neighborhood to evince strong historic character despite the fact that over half of its 20th century built environment is gone.

    Across St. Louis Avenue and a half-block to the west is the two block “14th Street Mall,” a section of the commercial district turned into a pedestrian mall in 1977. The buildings on the mall are largely abandoned and some have been lost.  However, this is the most dense and intact group of commercial buildings left in Old North, or anywhere on the near north side between downtown and Salisbury Avenue.

    A remnant of 1970’s era urban planning, the closure of 14th Street from St. Louis Avenue southward to Warren Avenue left a once-bustling shopping district in decline. The shop buildings gradually became vacant, and only a few businesses on the fringes remain open — notably the venerable Crown Candy Kitchen at 14th and St. Louis. With some renewed attention to the surrounding Old North St. Louis area in the last two years, though, the 14th Street Mall could enjoy some form of rejuvenation soon. Hopefully, rejuvenation will not consist of massive demolition; the two blocks suffered from much demolition when the mall was built to accommodate parking behind the stores on 14th Street.

    The scale of this shopping district is as intimately urban as that of the Cherokee Street district. Buildings here are small and close together, and within walking district of beautiful and remarkably intact — by northside standards — 19th century row and town houses. It could be instrumental in developing a multi-racial, mixed-income district of housing and shopping north of downtown, which is priced out of range for most of Saint Louis and is woefully lacking in diversity in its emergent population.

    This area could anchor a near-north belt of family-friendly housing, cooperatively managed rental units, urban gardens, live-work spaces (Neighborhood Gardens, anyone?), and neighborhood schools. Imagine: affordable, restored historic living space in the inner city in the 21st century!

    Categories
    Abandonment Carr Square North St. Louis Schools

    Carr School

    by Michael R. Allen

    Located on Carr Street between 14th and 15th streets, the Carr School has stood as a forlorn reminder that the downtown renovation boom has left many buildings behind. The Carr School, an elementary school designed in 1908 by the celebrated school district architect William B. Ittner, was abandoned by the St. Louis Public Schools in 1983. Sitting on a block of mostly vacant lots surrounded by the Carr Square Village low-rise public housing project, the school seems precariously posed between death and life; the mostly-occupied apartments are in reasonable shape and of a mediocre (as opposed to awful) design, but the missing buildings on the block and others along 14th Street point to a different future altogether. The Carr Square Tenants’ Association owns the building and has struggled for two decades to renovate the building for elderly housing with no success. Consequently, the building has slid toward dereliction — even a short glance at the roof is saddening — and has been listed on the Landmarks’ Association’s Most Endangered Buildings List for many years running. The interior is in particularly bad shape, with plaster falling from most walls and many floors less than intact. Nevertheless, the brick walls and their ornamental tile work are in very good shape and retain their beauty.

    Recall a time when such craftsmanship was common in elementary school design, and then attempt to imagine one of today’s new school buildings surviving 21 years of abandonment this gracefully. The difference in quality is staggering.

    See more photos at Built St. Louis.

    Categories
    Abandonment Carondelet Industrial Buildings South St. Louis

    Carondelet Coke Loader

    The loader at Carondelet Coke, which dates to after 1950, stands to the east of the plan on the river. Its conveyor arm was a two-way device that could be lowered into a barge to unload coal and be raised to deposit coke into barges. The loader’s conveyor arm connects to a conveyor belt that runs underground in a tunnel connected to the coal and coke piles between the river and the railroad tracks.