Categories
Demolition Hospitals South St. Louis Southwest Garden

Truman Restorative Center Demolished

by Michael R. Allen

LOCATION: 5700 Arsenal Street; Southwest Garden; Saint Louis, Missouri
DATE OF CONSTRUCTION: 1966
DATE OF CLOSURE: 2004
DATE OF DEMOLITION: August 2005

In 2003, the city of St. Louis decided to close the Harry S. Truman Restorative Center, a public nursing home that was the last surviving remnant of the city’s direct provision of healthcare services. The Truman Restorative Center was the successor to the old Chronic Hospital, and the Center’s building opened as an addition to the Chronic Hospital. The Chronic Hospital itself was the successor to the old St. Louis County Farm, or Poor House, and was plagued by an archaic and ill-defined mission. While providing a place for the city’s sickly and elderly poor to convalesce was a noble goal, the goals of the Chronic Hospital were uncertain. Was it a nursing home? A shelter? An infirmary?

As the Chronic Hospital clanked along, the city redefined it by successfully passing a $4 million bond issue in 1955 that led to the construction of a new wing in 1965. This wing operated as a modern nursing home, but the city was slow on transferring patients there from the old Chronic Hospital — although attrition was high and the number of patients was lower each year. The city closed the older parts of the Chronic Hospital in 1968, consolidating the operation in the new building and renaming the hospital the “Harry S. Truman Restorative Center.”

Yet times had turned against even a well-defined public nursing home. Federal subsidies through Medicare and Medicaid shrank from generous to insufficient from the 1960’s into the 1990’s, and the city’s mayors moved policy away from direct provision of health care services. The Truman Center ended its days with a small number of elderly residents and an overhead too high to be met by a changing government.

No one tried to save the Center from closing, and no one tried to save its fine cast-concrete-frame building from demolition. Like many of its residents, the Center died quietly and soon will be forgotten. The building is currently under demolition for a new residential development similar to the one that surrounds it, which was built on the site of the old Chronic Hospital, also lost.

More information

  • The Hill: Institutions from Norbury Wyman’s History of St. Louis Neighborhoods
  • St. Louis City Revised Code Chapter 12.20 (created Harry S. Truman Restorative Center)
  • Categories
    Demolition Fire Lewis Place North St. Louis

    4416-22 Martin Luther King Boulevard

    by Michael R. Allen

    At about 8:30 p.m. on August 8, I was driving toward downtown on I-64/40 and saw a huge gray smoke cloud against the also-gray night sky. I noticed bright orange flames reaching skyward. I took the Grand Avenue exit and headed north, then west until I pinpointed the location near Martin Luther King Boulevard and Taylor.

    I arrived near the building at 8:38 p.m., passing two newly-burnt buildings on the way (the damage on both was anywhere from one day to one week old). When I got close, I watched firefighters battling an intense blaze behind a two-story commercial building west of the corner of Newstead Avenue and MLK. The address of the building is 4416-22 Martin Luther King Boulevard.

    I left because I could not get close enough to see the building well, and the smoke on the ground was thick enough to preclude good viewing from the sidewalk.

    I tuned in various AM radio stations, hoping to catch a breaking news report. Nothing. Later tonight, I watched the local television news reports on KMOV Channel 4 and KSDK Channel 5. There were stories of suburban fires, but none about this one. I had spotted a helicopter circling the fire and had assumed it contained a television news camera person.

    I just searched the websites of those stations as well as the St. Louis Post-Dispatch and located no stories about the fire. I did, however, find stories about fires at the following north city locations within the last 48 hours:

  • 2400 block of Sarah
  • 5200 block of Maple

    The building at 4416-24 Martin Luther King Boulevard on August 10, 2005. Photograph by Claire Nowak-Boyd.

    I returned to the fire on MLK the next day and also did some research.

    The building that burned was a two-story commercial building at the rear of 4416-22 Martin Luther King. I write “rear” because the building that burned down was not originally attached to the storefront building that faces Martin Luther King and was only joined with a crude connector — good news for the building, I suppose.

    Looking toward the fire damaged one-story building on August 9, 2005. We could not get any closer per the work crew’s presence. Photograph by Michael R. Allen.

    The rear building was reduced to a pile of rubble and only a few sections of the outer brick walls stand, none higher than eight feet.

    Saint Gabriel Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahdo Church owns the buildings. Who knows what will become of the two-story building, with its graceful Union Foundry cast iron storefront columns and elegant lines. (Note the already-removed cornice and the odd-sized window sills.)

    UPDATE: DEMOLISHED, DECEMBER 2006

  • Categories
    Century Building Downtown Historic Preservation Media Mid-Century Modern

    “Form Over Function” Transcript Available

    CBS New Sunday Morning has posted a transcript of this morning’s program, Form Over Function, which featured preservation battles over Edward Durrell Stone’s 2 Columbus Circle building in New York, historic homes in the Chicago suburb of Kenilworth and the Century Building in St. Louis.

    Categories
    Century Building Downtown

    Work Resumes on Shoppe/Garage Structure

    by Michael R. Allen

    Work resumed at the Century Building Memorial Parking Garage on Wednesday, when I took this photograph. When I was there, the workers were drilling and also working on the elevator shaft structure rising on the southeast corner of the site.

    Categories
    Columbus Square Housing Mid-Century Modern

    Neighborhood Gardens and the Perils of Modernism

    by Michael R. Allen

    Condition of the apartments on April 2, 2005. Photograph by Michael R. Allen.

    The graceful modern buildings comprising Neighborhood Gardens Apartments take up a full city block just north of the Central Business District. Once praised as a revolution in low-income housing and a palliative to near north side overcrowding, they fell vacant around 1990 and stood empty for fifteen years, epitomizing a different sort of revolution on the near north side. The innovative buildings were perhaps too “modern” for the postmodern age, which once again finds substandard housing the touted norm for low income people. Architectural historians, including the stalwart preservationists involved with Landmarks Association, worked to save the buildings in their vacancy.

    Eventually, a little-known north county developer acquired the buildings and began renovating them in 2005. While the renovation will obliterate the original floor plans and pave the integral interior courtyards for vehicular parking, the buildings will be restored. As many have noted, the paved areas can become green once again but the buildings could never be rebuilt in the current architectural economy.

    The near north side Neighborhood Association, a social welfare organization headed by the progressive J.A. Wolf, conceived of Neighborhood Gardens in 1932. The plan was the city’s first experiment in mass worker housing, and came in the age before federal intervention in mass housing that mandated adherence to rigid standards and large scale. In this time, the Neighborhood Association was free to come up with a gracious and humane project that they felt would become a model for slum renewal in the city of St. Louis.

    Wolf had traveled to Europe to study mass housing, then a new idea associated with the work of the Bauhaus under the direction of Walter Gropius. After his travels, Wolf urged the Association to undertake mass housing on the European model. To this end, they established a limited dividend investment company, Neighborhood Gardens, in October 1933. Funds came in through private investment as well as through a $500,000 loan from the federal Public Works Administration’s Federal Emergency Housing Corporation. The PWA increased the loan size to $640,000 in February 1934, allowing the Association to raise $742,000 by March 1934. They could afford to finance the project, and had secured a full city block.

    Finding the right city block came through a fortuitous coincidence: city block 558, in the target area of the Association, was entirely owned by one owner, the Columbia Terminals Company. Furthermore, the block had been cleared in 1922 upon acquisition by the company and then rebuilt with large railroad equipment sheds and warehouses. These buildings were easy to demolish quickly. On May 28, 1934, the Columbia Terminals Company sold city block 558 to the Neighborhood Association for $87,524.

    A more deliberate stroke of fortune came when Wolf selected the St. Louis architectural firm of Hoener, Baum and Froese to design Neighborhood Gardens Apartments. The firm had designed the stunning art deco Eden Publishing Company building at 18th and Chouteau and a few other notable buildings. The firm had practical experience designing institutional and industrial buildings in a modern style, and its principals — Ewald Froese, Albert Baum and John Hoener — had strong ties to Europe’s Modernist architects. Their design for Neighborhood Gardens Apartments demonstrated the firm’s ability to design something at once suitably functional and aesthetically modernist.

    Neighborhood Gardens Apartments consisted of twelve buildings originally containing 252 apartments. Over sixty percent of the block was devoted to landscaped courtyards and lawns, placed in a way that still maintains a viable built density on the block. The resulting spaces are inviting and urbane, and must have seemed quite a fine remove from the Kerry Patch slum. The development included other enticing amenities: a community center, two club rooms, a library, a social hall and a large kitchen — all attractively nestled in one of the apartment buildings and located prominently at the corner of Eighth and Biddle.

    The three-story buildings are given a streamlined look, with little exterior ornament but with dynamic geometry. The buildings, built by H.B. Deal Company (which later built the also-touted Ford Apartments at 1405 Pine Street), employ load-bearing cinder block walls, poured concrete slab floors and steel girder reinforcement. Original plans for gabled attics never came to fruition, and the resulting flat roofs reinforce the stark lines of the buildings. The exterior walls are covered in red double-sized bricks — commonly used on warehouse and manufacturing buildings — laid in a Flemish bond, creating an effect at once overtly functional and intricate. Courses of darker single-sized bricks punctuate the walls at every third course. The brickwork is further articulated through variations devised by the masons laying the bricks. There are bricks laid at tangential and perpendicular angles to the walls. Sadly, such affordable variation did not become part of the American public housing vernacular.

    Working under the assumptions of the miasma theory of disease — that sickness is spread through dark, crowded spaces — the architects designed ample light through metal casement windows, cross-ventilating passageways and balconies double-loaded on protruding stairwell bays. The miasma theory gained credibility in the early twentieth century and already had been the basis for much hospital and school architecture. The basement stories were not crammed with apartments but instead contained storage and laundry facilities. Furthermore, apartments were accessed only off of the stairways, to encourage privacy and good morals. This domesticity was further imposed by the courtyards, containing a wading pool and other play areas to keep children from playing in the supposedly vice-filled and dangerous streets of the city.

    The moralizing program advanced by the Neighborhood Association contained a major problem that has plagued mass housing in St. Louis ever since: Neighborhood Gardens was intentionally segregated by race. Despite observing the growing numbers of blacks moving to the near north side during the rapid in-migration between 1920 and 1930, Wolf and his board felt that their model housing should be limited to white families. He envisioned a future “similar project for Negroes,” which he never built. The need for housing for blacks in this area of the city was as great as it was for whites: the census tract that included Neighborhood Gardens showed in 1930 the population to be 44% black, 41% immigrant or first generation and 14% native-born white. Apparently, racial integration was one of the social ills Wolf and like-minded planners identified as endemic to overcrowded urban areas.

    This aversion to the complexity of urban life shows the skepticism to traditional urbanism of progressive social activists and modernist architects in the 1930’s. Reacting against urban decline and disinvestment, they blamed many transitional social problems on the very form of the city grid itself. While the Neighborhood Association avoided demolition of large numbers of old buildings to build Neighborhood Gardens, much of that avoidance sprang from pragmatism; many members of the Association board thought that the apartments would become a model for eventual clearance of large parts of the near north side. These people viewed the unplanned and disorderly cityscape as conducive to poverty, vice and racial mixing, and sought to impose order through new housing. The Modernist aesthetic project aligned well with these aims, and Neighborhood Gardens is almost a perfect synthesis of the two ideals. Still, Neighborhood Gardens is rather sensitive to the street grid and relatively dense, and would have been a better model for slum clearance projects than later low-rise St. Louis projects like Carr Square Village and Clinton-Peabody Homes.

    Neighborhood Gardens Apartments opened in May 1935 to much acclaim. However, growing federal intervention in mass housing ensured that neither another such experiment nor a replica would be built in St. Louis. City government went on to build all subsequent mass housing using federal funding, and the scale of projects grew. None respected the city grid like Neighborhood Gardens Apartments had; certainly none was confined to only one block. All would be racially segregated by law for many years until almost all of their population was African-American anyway. The projects grew to the almost absurd scale dramatically realized in the construction of the Pruitt and Igoe Homes in the late 1950’s. The modernist desire for organization and efficiency grew into a drive to rebuild the city completely, and mass housing was the proving ground for disastrous new ideas.

    Federal housing planners have not again seriously looked into the benefits of small-scale mass housing like Neighborhood Gardens Apartments. Under federal planning, the nuance of the modernist aesthetic was subsumed by the underlying adoration of the uniformity and efficiency of mass production. Urban mass housing throughout the 1930s and 1940s retained a small scale, usually with buildings no taller than four stories, but the site plans were too large. Developments of several blocks became the norm, with street grid alterations or interruptions and separation of different uses. By the 1950’s, federally-sponsored mass housing resembled stark warehouses — an ironic twist on the modernist love for the efficiency of factories and industrial buildings. By this time, all buildings were massive towers set on empty lawns, creating a frightening landscape that became an icon of the ills of urban living. Le Corbusier’s modern house, the “machine for living,” as interpreted by US federal housing planners was an impressive and inhumane thing. Neighborhood Gardens Apartments had become a distant memory and eventually fell empty.

    By the time Neighborhood Gardens Apartments fell empty in 1990, the modernist aesthetic was completely out of vogue with housing planners while the bastardized warehouse idea was alive and well. New mass housing emerging in the 1990s under the federal HOPE VI program replaced the housing towers with insular low-density developments made to mock local vernacular styles. Instead of many units off of dingy corridors, units became individual buildings within fenced compounds. Interest in reviving the local modernist prototype from the days of restrained and urbane implementation of 20th century mass housing ideals was low.

    Even the ownership of Neighborhood Gardens Apartments, which had passed to the City of St. Louis, was forgotten. In 1997, Mayor Clarence Harmon announced a crackdown on absentee owners of vacant properties by publicly affixing an anti-absentee owner poster to one of the buildings. He did not know that the apartments were city-owned. In the years following this act, little happened at Neighborhood Gardens. In 2001, Spanish Lake Development Corporation of O’Fallon, Missouri, began seeking financing for renovation, finally starting work in 2005.

    Neighborhood Gardens once again will provide housing to workers, but not as a shining prototype of modern mass housing. The street grid around the block has been altered for the Cochran Gardens, O’Fallon Place and Columbus Square developments, neither of which is aging half as well as the Neighborhood Gardens buildings have. Under the renovation plan, the courtyards will be paved, the apartments enlarged and the last vestiges of the old ideal will be repackaged as nostalgia. But the buildings of Neighborhood Gardens remain an antidote to inadequate housing, both before and after their time.

    Categories
    Columbus Square Housing Mid-Century Modern

    Neighborhood Gardens: Rules and Regulations

    Click on the following thumbnails to read the rules and regulations statement that a tenant had to sign in 1938 in order to secure a lease on an apartment at Neighborhood Gardens. This document comes courtesy of Dan Dalton of Spanish Lake Development Corporation, the developer behind the renovation of Neighborhood Gardens.

    Categories
    Demolition North St. Louis St. Louis Place

    Starlight Missionary Baptist Church

    by Michael R. Allen

    Awaiting demolition, March 18, 2005.

    Small and simple, this church was a fine expression of the faith its builder had for continuity and humility. Unfortunately, times have changed and such values have become almost marginal. There is absolutely no humility in wholesale clearance of several blocks of 19th-century buildings and there shall be no permanence of replacement given the cheapness of the new construction here. The Starlight Missionary Baptist Church at 25th and Sullivan streets in St. Louis Place fell in May for construction of a huge multi-block housing developed by the Pyramid Companies. The history of the building, which may date to the 1870s, and its small size made it a prime candidate for preservation in a site plan that included ample open space. Instead it fell at the hands of wreckers.

    Categories
    Abandonment Hyde Park North St. Louis Schools

    Irving School in Hyde Park

    by Michael R. Allen

    The Irving School at 3829 North 25th Street, named for popular 19th century writer Washington Irving, has stood at the western end of the Hyde Park neighborhood for 134 years. Opening in 1871, the school was the St. Louis Public School District’s second school (Clay School, also located in Hyde Park, being the first). Originally, this elementary school had a staff of six teachers including one who spoke German for teaching the many neighborhood children who did not yet speak English. The presence of the German-speaking teacher was a conscious effort to get the many German families in this neighborhood integrated into “mainstream” civic life. This was no easy feat — after all, Hyde Park was originally laid out only a few years earlier, in 1844, as the town of Bremen and remained heavily populated by Germans.

    Not surprising is the fact that the architect for the main building of Irving School was German-born Frederick W. Raeder, then serving as the District’s first official architect. Raeder was a recent transplant, too, having arrived in town in 1867 from Germany. His design, a plain yet stately red-brick original Italianate building, has a striking unique feature: each of the twelve classrooms was located at a corner. This move to ensure that ample light reached the classrooms led to the three-story height and the many large windows.

    As part of his work with the District, Raeder later designed Gratiot School as well as Des Peres School, site of the nation’s first kindergarten. The two-story Des Peres school building, completed in 1873, is still extant in Carondelet, and bears some resemblance to Irving. Gratiot School, located near the intersection of Hampton and Manchester avenues, housed the district’s archives for many years until it was closed and sold during the 2003 round of school cutbacks. It still stands.

    Irving School was expanded in 1891 and 1894. A three-story addition built on the west side of the original Irving building is almost indistinguishable in material and style from its parent structure. The kindergarten building, which added eight rooms to the building, adds a gentle stylistic difference to the complex. With a rusticated stone water table, catalog-ordered ornamental brick and arched windows, this addition is a modest Romanesque Revival endeavor that harmonizes with the older building.

    Irving School still in use, 1978. (Source: Landmarks Association of St. Louis Collection.)

    In 1994, the District closed Irving School. The District placed the complex up for sale in 2003, but has yet to accept any offer.

    Categories
    Housing LRA Midtown

    Central Apartments

    by Michael R. Allen

    Yet another historic building sits in Midtown amid vacant lots where its neighbors have fallen steadily in the last fifty years — many of them falling only in the last twenty during the reign of Grand Center, Inc. This particular building is the elegant Central Apartments at 3727 Olive Street. The Central Apartments building is a simple T-shaped single-entrance apartment building built in 1916. One notable feature is that each apartment has its own balcony. Unlike other apartment buildings from this age, Central Apartments uses little catalog-order terra cotta and relies on fenestration and soldier courses of brick to articulate the facade. The only terra cotta here is a thin Greek key course in the cornice and a blank course running above the fourth floor windows. Still, the building is a worthy composition in the eclectic realm of Midtown architecture.

    Central Apartments on September 29, 2004.

    Somehow the Central Apartments fell empty in 2001 and the Land Reutilization took title, presumably holding the building for redevelopment under the Grand Center, Inc. master plan for Midtown. The future looks dim for this building given Grand Center’s penchant for demolition and for driving out any use not related to the large-scale projects it wants to populate Midtown. This block of Olive has lost at least 25 buildings in the last 30 years, and has become a wasteland of vacant lots and marginal uses. Small-scale developers simply aren’t welcome in Midtown these days. Neither are small buildings, it seems. Lack of imagination is a key feature of the “museum and arts” district.

    Looking northeast at the Central Apartments on September 29, 2004.

    Categories
    Historic Preservation Theft

    The Stained Glass Fence

    by Michael R. Allen

    On one of those rare instances where we watch network television news, we caught a report on a KTVI Channel 2 news program about the South Patrol’s efforts to return stolen stained glass windows to south city building owners. Buried at the end of the reports was this tidbit:

    The thief sold all of the windows to a single local antiques dealer who cut a deal with police to escape prosecution.

    There’s the real story. The police can catch every “stained glass bandit” and these dealers remain, ready to sell stolen goods and fueling the market in thievery by creating demand.

    Who was this dealer? KTVI didn’t release the name.